Japan punishes improvisation more than any destination we sell, and rewards preparation more. Here is what genuinely matters.
The mistake everyone makes
Too many cities. A first Japan trip that tries to include Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima, Nara, Hakone and Kanazawa in twelve days spends roughly a third of its time in transit and arrives home exhausted.
Three bases in twelve days is right. Tokyo, Hakone and Kyoto covers the modern city, the mountains and the historical capital, with day trips from each. Nara and Osaka are day trips from Kyoto; treating them as overnight stops costs you two hotel changes for no gain.
Timing is not a preference, it is the trip
Cherry blossom runs late March to early April, moving north over about three weeks, and the forecast only firms up around two weeks out. Autumn colour runs mid-November to early December, moving south. Both are worth planning around, and both mean booking accommodation four to six months ahead — good properties in Kyoto sell out entirely in blossom season.
Golden Week (late April to early May) and Obon (mid-August) are when Japan itself travels. Prices rise, trains fill and popular sites become genuinely unpleasant. We generally advise against both.
The rail pass question
Following the 2023 price increase, the nationwide JR Pass no longer pays for itself on a simple Tokyo–Kyoto return. It becomes worthwhile from roughly three long-distance legs upward. For most first trips, regional passes plus individually booked Shinkansen tickets work out cheaper.
We price both against your actual itinerary rather than assuming. It usually swings a few thousand rupees either way.
Reserve your Shinkansen seats
Non-reserved carriages exist and are fine when travelling alone with light luggage. With family, or with suitcases, reserve — and note that the oversized baggage areas on the Tokaido line now require a reservation in advance, which catches out a lot of travellers.
Book the timed entries early
teamLab, the Ghibli Museum, the Imperial Palace tour and several Kyoto temple gardens release tickets on fixed schedules — sometimes a month ahead, sometimes on the first of the preceding month — and sell out within hours. This is the single most valuable thing an agent does for a Japan itinerary. Missing the Ghibli release window means simply not going.
Practical notes
- Cash. Far more usable than most travellers expect, particularly at shrines, smaller restaurants and rural buses. Carry more than feels necessary.
- Luggage forwarding. Takkyubin will move your suitcases between hotels overnight for a modest fee. On a multi-city itinerary this transforms the travel days.
- Accessibility. Genuinely excellent — nearly every station has lift access — but the lift is often at one specific end of a very long platform. Worth mapping in advance for anyone with mobility needs.
- Dietary requirements. Vegetarian is harder than expected; dashi (fish stock) is in a great deal of apparently vegetable food. We brief clients on this and provide phrasing that actually works.
Twelve days, three bases, timed entries booked in advance and the rail costed properly. That is the trip worth taking.